So, a year has gone by and I'm about to do it again. Contrary to my thoughts immediately after the last ARC where I felt that I had done enough. As the date for this departure approached I became more and more questioning about why I am doing this. I suppose it is the challeng, the beauty the solitude and the team environment that drives me.
I leave on Wed. morning from Buffalo to New York and on to Providence where Cap'tn Ed will pick me up. This year I am the purser, so collecting money from the crew, developing menues and shopping lists, doing the shopping and running the vessel's books are my new responsibilities.
Most of my gear has been safely stowed on the bed in the guest room. Tomorrow is pack day, then a "last supper" with the family. I'll be updating this in Newport, Bermuda and Antigua.
Forward:
My fascination with sail boats and sailing began with my first voyage across Lake St. Joseph near Quebec City, on my cousin’s boat “Old # 10”. I was only a youngster but I can still remember the stern warnings about watching out for the boom when tacking. Of course I went home with a bump on my head for ignoring those instructions.
While living in Moncton, John Fudge and I had a number of memorable experiences, which will remain confidential, on his Tanzar 16 in Shediac Bay. Then later in Halifax I was able to sail several times on the Mara, a 41-foot gaff rigged ketch, owned by Morley and Doris Taylor, doris being my Mother in law. The Mara was a smaller version of the Bluenose. These day trips led to a two week cruise through St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, with Morley and Doris, Lynne and John Fudge also my in laws, and Laurie.
It seemed that with each sailing experience my love of the sport grew stronger.
After moving to Hudson, Quebec, I was able to secure a position as foredeck on High Strung, a highly competitive J24, owned by Dave Cobbett. Knowing nothing of the foredeck I was extremely fortunate to have signed on with a crew that did not believe in yelling and screaming, Therefore, although my learning curve was frustrating to some, I was allow to save my dignity as I learned the mechanics of spinnaker up, spinnaker down, jibe to starboard and port as well as the need for correct sail packing. This experience also allowed me the opportunity to quickly analyze sail problems and to enact rapid solutions.
While sailing with Dave we attended regattas all over Montreal as well as Halifax, for the Canadian Nationals, Beaconsfield for the North Americans, Kingston for CORK race week, Youngstown New York for the LEVELS, and Lake George New York for the Changing of the Colours.
After moving to St. Catharines Ontario I was able to renew an old friendship with Rick Sherk, who promptly acquired a C&C 38 called Bandit. We raced this vessel on Lake Ontario and attended LEVELS and C&C Owners Regatta in Toronto. Then Rick decided to sell Bandit and purchased a MORC Andrews 30, named HeartBeat, which we raced in Levels and LYRA.
In August 2002 I was able to secure a position on another C&C 38, Eagle III, this time in Booth Bay Maine, for a delivery to Boston. The crew was made up of John and Ed Fudge and myself, This was my first introduction to Ed, which proved to be the catalyst for this journal. After the trip Ed asked me if I would be interested in doing a trans-Atlantic crossing. My answer was yes and the rest is history.
Nov. 1, 2002
That is how the whole adventure started, although I didn’t realize it at the time. Two months later on Nov.1, 2002, I received the following series of e-mails.
Hi, Jim--Sending this message from Barcelona. Have just got word that the owner of the vessel cannot join us. So----there is a crew slot open for you. It would be fantastic if you could come---We can never have enough young strong backs!!! The race starts from Las Palmas in the Canary Islands and ends in St Lucia. We did it in less than 18 days last time, expect to do better this year, can win if you come. The race starts Nov 24. Yu need to be in Las Palmas by Nov 21. I attach a message I sent to the owner this morning. If you could respond, I’ll pick yr message up tonight or failing that, in Cartagena in 3 days Cheers ED
Welcome aboard, Jim----The dates are fine. You do not need to bring any linen, sleeping bags or towels. Light foul weather gear will do. Sea boots are useful for the first few days after which it is sunny and dry. Sunhats shorts, flashlight, knife, camera and a couple of books will do. You can stay on the vessel in St Lucia until we take off for St Martin. I can’t think of anything else at the moment. It’s going to be great!!!
Cheers Ed
PS In Cartegena at the moment. Probably leaving for Gib tomorrow since we have an east wind. About 2 days with luck to Gib. Will contact you then.
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Hi, Jim--- The marina to go to is Marina Las Palmas .Go to the ARC office and ask for the Aphrodite berth. If the vessel is locked look for the key in the starboard dorade vent by the centre cockpit companionway. Let me know yr flight #'s etc. We leave Gib on Tues planning to arrive Las Palmas Nov 18---- Cheers ED
Greetings from Las Palmas---- Look forward to having all of you on board. The vessel is in the main yacht marina where all the arc boats are located. We are on pontoon #18 near the end on the left. The forward companionway will be closed but not locked if we are away from the vessel. The official name of the marina is "Muelle Deportiva" Cheers cap´n ED. PS if you have changed any of yr arrival times, let me know.
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Hi, Jim ---Thanks for the message. Great you have place to stay in St Lucia. Yu will be very glad to get off the vessel. We lost our "life sling" package overboard, the first or second night out of France. I hope you know the kind I mean. It's a buoyant sling, attached to a floating line, all packed in a rectangular soft yellow plastic container, which hangs on the aft rail behind the helmsman. If you could buy one and schlep it over here, I would reimburse you on presentation of a proper evidence of purchase. Pls confirm that this is practical for you etc. Cheers ED
Thursday
Nov. 21, 2002
The first leg of this dream adventure is now complete. I am writing this in the airport in Madrid, Spain. My flight here was about 6 hours out of Philadelphia, and I actually slept for about 2-3 hours. My eyes are feeling really scratchy. At one point I thought that my luggage had been lost, but I was then informed that it was going right through to Laz Palmas. Great. A lot better than schlepping it around Madrid.
I can’t believe the people here. Everyone smokes, anywhere they want and they insist on those French Gitanes or some other equally obnoxious substitute.
I have to admit that I had been getting more and more nervous about this trip as the departure approached. Luckily I had told so many people, I couldn’t back out. Now if I can get through the rest of today, tomorrow should be great. The hardest part so far was saying goodbye to everyone, especially Laurie. I her sent an email 10 minutes ago, but had to rush as my time was running out. The terminal computers are all coin operated and quite expensive. One Euro for 5 minutes.
I’ll continue this after the flight to Laz Palmas. Currently the weather is overcast, cool and raining.
Friday
Nov. 22, 2002
I made it to the boat by about 3:30. The taxi driver couldn’t understand any English nor could I speak Spanish. Both of us driving through the city with our hands flying all over the place, must have presented a pretty funny scene.
I was surprised with the time it took to get here. Actually the flight was almost the same distance as Toronto to Florida. Then on the approach we had a great view of the windmills that they use to generate electricity. There were hundreds of them.
We had a great dinner in a very posh restaurant, but the waiter forgot to serve Don, so he was quite upset. He is now known as the invisible man. Strange place. The restaurant wouldn’t open before 8:00 in the evening and therefore we couldn’t make any reservations. Ed and I attended the Swan and the Oyster cocktail parties before dinner.
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Hi Laurie,
I got on the boat yesterday at about 3 pm. The guys were busy getting things ready and buying food. Today it all arrived and we had to stow it all away. It’s amazing how many spaces you can find on a boat. The temp is about 70-75 degrees. Had a great meal last night.
I’m still a little tired as I slept for about 2 hours on the plane and haven’t quite caught up.
I will be sending another email from another address. Race starts at 1.00 on Sunday.
Got you messages but cannot find the infinity symbol either.
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Hi Dad,
I hope you get this before you leave. I am excited about this trip for you, I think it sounds amazing. I can't imagine how much you are going to see and do...I keep on picturing "The Perfect Storm"! Make sure you are safely secured to the boat at all times, Use one hand to hold on to the boat and one hand to take lots of pictures. Don't forget to buy me something cool, not a stupid tee shirt. Avoid Sharks, if you catch a big fish that starts to pull you off the boat LET GO of the fishing pole. Chances are the fish is bigger than you, and you are more valuable than the pole. Anyways, enough about safety. Have a great time, don't get so drunk you stumble off the boat, and e-mail us often.
Love You,
Jamie
Saturday
Nov. 23, 2002
Last night we went to the far side of the island for the departure dinner. The restaurant was right on the beach with large surf rolling in. There was a long stone boardwalk with plenty of shops and pay phones, so, after dinner we all called home for our last time before the trip. Had a great talk with Laurie. I wasn’t expecting to call and she wasn’t expecting one so I was lucky she was home. Not knowing what to expect while at sea, I was fearful that the call could be our last. I must be tired because I am sounding like an emotional cripple…
This morning we are going through the final prep of the boat. There will be two tall ships and 250 other competitors in our fleet so I should get some great pictures. Ed thinks we will all be seasick but I am not so sure. The forecast is for winds of 15-20 knots and seas of 6-8 feet. Then on Monday the wind will die down and seas will go to 10-15. We’ll see.
Made some sleeping changes today. I moved out of the bow cabin (no air, no room and hot) to the central salon. The bow cabin is now a sail storage cabin.
I am really exited about getting going. In 4 weeks I’ll know if I want to do this again or not. It will also be Christmas Eve. I do have some feelings of guilt and selfishness, so maybe only this once. We’ll see.
It’s been great meeting people from Holland, Germany, Norway, Sweden, Australia Canada and the U.S.
Two nights ago, Mike and Skyler met a 22-year-old German girl who was trying to hitch a ride on a boat. They tried to discourage her as you really do not know who you are sailing with and you will be at the mercy of that person or crew for 2-3 weeks with nowhere to get off. Last night she still had not found a boat, to our relief. Hopefully she won’t today (too dangerous for a young girl. Not the sailing but the potential for harm) and she will have to fly home to Germany.
When we got back to the boat, Ed presented us all with our crew uniforms. A navy blue short-sleeved golf shirt with Aphrodite 2002 on the left breast and a large Canadian flag on the left sleeve, as well as a similarly stitched sailing cap. We shot the midnight potato gun to the great pleasure of our yachting neighbours.
"The Starting Party is Over"
The docks are feverish with 1400 sailors loading supplies, making last minute changes to boats, sails etc. Big Buzz in the air!! Skippers meeting has been held and we are cleared out of Spain. Captain's dinner, as is the custom is being held momentarily in one of Las Palmas finest. The winds are forecast at 20k NW which is ok, but the sea forecast calls for 18-20 ' (very nasty), then settling down Monday. C'est la vie! The crew have bonded well. There has been a major party every night and while #1 and I made a feeble (it turns out) effort to keep up earlier in the week, we now retire with a cup of hot coco and books at 2300 hrs. The remainder disappear somewhere, only to arrive back at the boat in the wee hrs (0530 last night) stumbling over lines and winches to collapse in heaps in the main saloon. We waken them with a vengeance for the day’s tasks. Their collective sins of the night's reveries prohibit shirking the new days duties. ----------We are now retiring for the evening after firing the midnight potato cannon, complete with fluorescent (sp?) Potatoes. The captain, in the process of loading the first shot launched himself over the side, dumping the glowing liquid over the crew and vessel amidst gales of laughter. No serious damage done and the shoot continued. Our boat community at the end of our pontoon comprises Dutch, German, Norwegian, British and Aussie vessels, they are all very helpful and lots of laughs.
Sunday
Nov. 24,2002
Sunday morning was spent last minute tasks. Showers ashore etc. Left the dock for the race course at 11:30. Both breakwaters were covered with locals cheering us on. As we went through the gap between the two we shouted “Felice Navidad” and fired the potato gun. They loved it and shouted back to us. They used one of the local navy vessels for the start boat and fired the cannon. We had a great spinnaker start. By the time we reached the end of the island, we figured that we were in the top 20. Then the spinnaker collapses, the wind shifted 180 degrees and began to blow 30-35 knots. We took down the chute and put 2 reefs in the main. The rest of the night the seas built. I felt a little queasy but slept it off. When I took the helm at midnight the stars were out and 15-foot waves were cresting over the side of the boat. I was a little over protected with fleecy pants, long sleeved T-shirt and fleecy sweater and foul weather gear. I felt like a little kid going out to play in the snow but couldn’t move because of the layers of clothing. I really only needed the foul weather gear. Beautiful black sea with white crests of surf with the stars and moon brighter than I have ever seen them.
Nov 24; The Canary Islanders gathered around the points of land so the could see the yachts leaving the harbour and cheer them on. The magic phrase for us was Felice Navidad. Whenever I said it to an Islander, I got a big grin and a joyful response. As we sailed the points, waving our flag, we yelled Felice Navidad (Merry Christmas) and a hundred people yelled it back. We had a great start at the gun with our blue spinnaker flying, sailed past fireboats spraying huge jets of water and competitors. We have a fast boat. Wonder hit us as we were suddenly becalmed at the south end of the island with 6 or 7 other boats. We seemed to be in a no wind cyber zone because a mile outside our circle, boats were heeled over. Soon we got hit and had to down the spin and reef twice. Bugger of a night. Rough, sick and wet. I am not a dignified barfer like Sandy Tideswell, and quiet and dignified like Sprint, but like them, I still stood my watches. Got boarded y a couple of Greenies that knocked Cam across the cockpit. Tonight is much quieter. We are drying and recovering. Don McT
aphrodite@stratosmobile.net wrote:
Sunday--Great light air spinnaker start, we walk gleefully away from a couple of other swans. Big wind shift at the bottom of Gran Canaria 3 hrs later. Pipes up to >30k in a couple of minutes. Great crew performance in getting spinnaker down successfully. Rough bumpy ride all night with2 reefs in the main and a much reduced genoa. This morning, the 25th, wind down to 22k. from NW. We will drive south t o pick up the trades, resisting the urge to turn further west at least for another day More later ECF
Monday
Nov. 25, 2002
Went on deck at 9:00 AM to see a great show of Dolphins swimming and jumping around the boat. Then they were gone as quickly as they had materialized. Don was saying that if we had had the fishing line out, they wouldn’t have even come close. Cam was on the helm when they arrived. He said that they initially had gone past in front, but quickly turned to investigate as soon as they had spotted us. Not much happened today. Mike and I took the 21:00 watch. Before the moon came out it was really dark and as the hull of the boat caused the wake to foam and fluorescent plankton began flashing green like large blobs of fireflies. It looked like Tinker Bell’s wand of sparkles with each wave we crossed over.
Tuesday
Nov. 26, 2002
Went up on deck at 9:00 to talk to Don. Another school of Dolphins surrounded us, leaping, jumping or just swimming with the boat. After 10-15 min they disappeared. The winds have died down to about 6-8 knots with a large cross-sea. Difficult to maintain the course that we need to reach the trade winds. We continue to be pushed to the west but we need to go south. The winds just won’t co-operate. We guess that we are in 8th place in our fleet. Don caught a 2.5-foot mahi-mahi, which he filleted and we ate for dinner. It was great cooked with butter, garlic and ginger. I had dish duty and was finished in time to do the 18:00 watch. The sun goes down at 6 in the evening and rises 12 hours later. Doing the 18:00 hour watch means that we get off at 21:00 but are back on at 3:00 till 6:00. Not much time for sleep. As this routine repeats every 3rd day, it is difficult to establish any personal routine for sleeping so we basically have to grab naps whenever we can.
Wednesday
Nov. 27, 2002
During the night the wind shifted from South to the West so finally we are rapidly approaching the Trades. Fairly quiet day. I caught a mahi-mahi and we’ll have it for lunch tomorrow. My clothes are still very wet from the wind shift on day one. I am learning though. It turns out that clothes will never dry if they are soaked in salt water, so I washed in fresh and now the boat is my clothesline. I was the cook today and prepared a beef bourguignon although it tasted more like beef stew. We are on a rotation for cooking and dish duty. That way we can all show off our culinary skills. Mike and are on watch at 24:00 tonight. It is now 19:30 and I’m going to bed for a couple of hours.
Log Aphrodite Nov 27. Smashing night. Wing on wing 25 knots of wind doing 8-9knots. Waves on our tail, smashing and surfing through wave after wave. Biophospher blasting out in great chunks on each side and sparklers from the wake. Ed's shoulder length golden locks streaming out over his shoulders a la Guy La Fleur. Rain in the squalls and banging and clanging from the cabin below. What a great time t o be on the wheel and to be fifteen again. Caught 2 Dorado so far. The neophytes to fishing on our crew felt saddened as the beautiful colours of the fish faded to grey as it died. I reminded them that this vicious monster of a killer fish tried to attack and murder our innocent lure without mercy. Lures must be safe from such attacks on the oceans of the world. They felt much better then, and enjoyed their grilled fillets. Young crew-old McTavish. DMcT
aphrodite@
"Those who would go to sea for pleasure would go to hell for a pastime" EdwardOwen1929
We have just made the turn west, thinking the trades have filled in, and we are finally on the more or less direct line to St Lucia, a mere 2284 nm away. It’s only 10-15 kts at the moment, but we are promised more punch (20-25k) tonight. Progress was slow yesterday, only 130nm. Gotta be 160 per day!! The good news a new preoccupation of the crew is---FISHING. We dined last night on fresh pan grilled Mahi, Mahi. McTavish's reputation as a fisherman and ship's liar (well, maybe not the liar part), prior to yesterday, was sagging worse than his jowls. POW, a good size one is in the boat yesterday afternoon. Pow, again today another one!!! Turn it off, Don. The purser is grumbling about too much food etc. Tomorrow, however, we will lunch on a ginger and hot pepper coconut milk Dorado stew. Yum!
Other news---Crew did laundry and all had showers today thanks to the water maker, the aromas on board have had a distinct improvement. Skyler Palmer won today’s loud shirt contest and we are just preparing to dine one fine Boeuf Bourguignon (sp) washed down with one of Spain's finest Gran Reserva Rioja's and topped off with an equally fine # of Spanish cigars. It’s brutal out here! AT 22 56N 20 50w Stand By!
Thursday
Nov. 28, 2002
Last night we had the midnight watch. We finally got to the trade winds. This is really great. The wind is about 18-25 knots steady from one direction. The seas have flattened and we are heading directly for St. Lucia. We had a couple of squalls come through. The wind usually increases when this happens so we had to reduce the headsail. It was a real thrill to helm under these conditions. The boat feels like it is on the verge of losing control but is also very responsive. There was only a half moon but it is waning so it only comes up after midnight. So, very dark, very fast, and sometimes very scary with following waves the size of a two-story house. After watch I had the best sleep so far, no more banging and rock and roll.
Friday
Nov. 29, 2002
Had a rough night. The wind was supposed to go to 30 knots with seas of 14 feet. Instead we got 20 knots and crossed seas. Very hard to maintain correct heading. Went to bed at midnight but couldn’t sleep, then had to get up at 6 for a two hour watch. It was quite beautiful with the sun rising directly behind me, alone on deck as we surfed down 12-foot waves. Went back to bed at 8. New course is 260 degrees. 270 is directly west so we are making headway. We will soon be celebrating the 200 miles in one-day event, with a bottle of champagne.
The sea is so big. Our trip will be 2,700 miles. All day we keep holding at 5-7 knots with 10-11 over the bottom. Believe it of not but there is a current pushing us west.
It got quite wild in the night with 30 K winds and 14-foot seas. All the scarier at night because of the lack of light and the heightened sense of speed.
So far my right knee is swollen but the brace helps. My left ankle is sprained from the constant torqueing while on the wheel. To add insult to injury, I got hit in the head by a wayward flying fish. Three others landed on deck. These guys are dangerous…
Couldn’t sleep because of the rock and roll and slam bang of objects flying around the cabin. At least I am on the low side of the boat so I don’t need a lee cloth to stay in the berth. That will change when we get closer and have to go onto the other tack. Back on watch at 3AM. Conditions no better.
"A good thing is running down the trades" Edward Owen June 1934
We are about 48 hrs into a downhill run at hull speed. WE are wing on wing, wind varying 20-30 kts. Seas 10 to 12 ft. Yikes! Our noon-to-noon run today was 197nm. She comes off the roller tops at terrifying (for us) speeds. Skyler holds the record for 8.85 kts thru the water (9.9kts over the mud, we have a strong favourable current). With the wind and seas on the tail, Aphrodite rolls back and forth, uncontrollably, sometimes toe rail to toe rail. Dry up top, it is a nightmare down below, dishes, pots and pans, cans and bottles all clanging and crashing. Sleep is difficult with the roll; however, each crewmember finds unique ways to jam themselves into their respective bunks. The upside for all of us is the speed and the thrill of driving this honking big freight train. More notes--A flying fish hit Jim in the face today and unfortunately got away. Under more than primitive conditions today, lunch saw us being served a Thai curry fresh mahi mahi soup. We forgot to celebrate American Thanksgiving yesterday, so in honour of our two American crew, we did a New England boiled dinner!! Everyone agreed it was an interesting substitute for the turkey. We are at pos 19 56N and 27 56W The main fleet is north of us. Keep yr fingers crossed!! Cheers
Saturday
Nov. 30, 2002
Big day today. In the last 24 hours we traveled 203 miles. A record for the boat and crew. The last 2 days we have completed 397 miles.
We seem to have 3 topics of conversation, sailing, family and food. It seems like I am thinking of family all the time. I wonder why I haven’t received any e-mail.
The sea is exactly as portrayed in the movies. Rushing water and huge following swells, blue skies.
We had some good news and then some very bad. Today we confirmed our 203-mile day. Then we heard of a man overboard emergency behind us. Apparently a crew member went over the side 300 miles behind us. Unfortunately it did not end well and he was not able to get back on board. Apparently the vessel had a 2 man crew and the one left on deck could not retrieve him.
We all wear harnesses and tethers, but they only serve to keep you with the boat. Getting back on board is another thing especially when considering the weight speed and suction the water exerts.
Sunday
Dec. 1, 2002
Same old same old. High seas, 15-20 feet from behind. Winds 20-30 knots. The boat is sailing very well. Apparently yesterday’s emergency was answered at midnight. The body was still in the water and a funeral at sea was conducted.
Another emergency behind us today. Lost rudder on a Hunter 45. Cannot steer. Nobody hurt. They will get some help and continue. The crew on the first emergency were brothers. The assisting vessel gave up one crewmember to help with the crossing. Single-handing was not an option.
On a high note, we did celebrate the 200-mile mark with Champagne.
aphrodite@
"Reality begins 1000 nm offshore" Edward Owen. Dec 1919.
We are now at 18 43N 36 27W, roaring toward our mid point which we will reach today. We were complaining about the rock and roll previously, but now that looks like child's play. We are now inside a giant wet blender, being bashed around at will. The sea is running about 10 ft but with a vicious cross swell that tries to spin the vessel around in the most unpredictable manner. The excellent news is that we are careening forward at an unprecedented speed. The last 4 days runs have been 199,204,196 and 200. Wow! We celebrated the over 200 day with champagne toast and when Skyler popped the cork, 15 dolphins appeared instantly around the boat. Hope we can keep it up for at least another day. The winds are forecast to ease soon. McTavish is at it again, another good sized Mahi, Mahi; the crew now becoming less and less enthusiastic with each catch. They now secretly haul Don’s line in while he is sleeping!! Some talk of St Lucia is beginning to emerge, murmurs at first, soon to become a torrent. We have not had a position report for a couple of days, so not sure how we are doing. Don't think it should be too bad, we shall see. Stand by—Aphrodite
Monday
Dec. 2, 2002
Day 8 with no word from home. Another big day today. We crossed the half way point. Celebrated with another bottle of champagne. We have settled into 3 routines. Each evening watch group tends to sleep at different times. At first we spent a lot of time on deck, now we read and try to catch up on lost sleep while we are not on watch. At this point it looks like we will be in on Monday or Tuesday. That is in only one week. We are in 4th place and feel that once the winds go down tomorrow we should be able to pass the 3rd boat.
Tuesday
Dec. 3, 2002
Another day of sloppy seas and variable winds. I cooked dinner and have to say that Sarah’s special spaghetti was a hit even if we didn’t have the “leaf” to put in. We had just fallen asleep when Mike and I were awakened by a commotion on deck. No it wasn’t Saint Nick. Ed had decided to jibe the boat but only had 4 hands on deck. So we suited up with harness, tether, life jacket, boots etc. and went up to help out. Jibing is quite a production. Release the spinnaker pole preventer, drop the pole, furl the jib and release the pole. Release the main preventer, and jibe the main. Then reattach the pole to the jib, pole up and unfurl jib on the other side. Then reset all preventers. All this while the boat is rocking and pitching. It’s no wonder that we don’t celebrate the opportunity to practise our jibing skills. One half hour later, back to bed till midnight for our watch.
Finally got an email from Laurie. I don’t know why I was worried about her when I was the one in the middle of the ocean. It turns out that my emails had not gone through so she was operating under our original agreement, emails for emergencies only. Anyway all is well so I can now settle down and enjoy the ride.
Wednesday
Dec. 4, 2002
Slow day. Slow winds and bumpy sea. No fish. Had a shower and feel great. On watch tonight at 21:00. At this rate we should be in St. Lucia by Tues or Wed.
This has been a lot of fun and at times quite exiting, but would I do it again? As I transcribe this (two months later) and after a lot of reflection the answer is YES!!
When we took our watch at 21:00, Cam and Don reported some play in the tiller. 3 hours later we reported the same to Ed and Skyler. We were concerned that if the play was caused by the bearing wearing out, the rudder could falloff. So Mike went down into the rear locker to check it out. To do this we had to empty the locker and he was lowered into it upside down. He couldn’t see any play so that was good news but overall the situation is not great with 900 miles to go.
Later that night we woke up to all sorts of electronic beeping. Seems that Don had thought he had seen a flare off of our port rail, with no radio or light contact. He was trying to get the radar working but to no avail. Turns out that it was a false alarm. He must be starting to see things. Not surprising with all the algae fluorescing around us.
Got great email from Jamie.
Thursday
Dec. 5, 2002
Twelve days at sea. We worked on the tiller and it is working a little better. At least it’s not the bearings.
Skyler caught another Mahi Mahi, our 4th so far. We are all getting tired of fish. It is now 13:17 EST and we have 870 miles to go. We started with 2,700 so we are almost home. Cam is on watch with the auto helm and all the others are asleep.
I don’t think I’ll be doing this again. I am making my point and to do it twice would make the adventure more a form of transportation. (This was written while on board, after a couple of months on land I have changed my mind)
On watch tonight at 18:00, then again at 3:00.
Always thinking of home, Laurie, kids and of course the lovely Aussie. My bunk is so narrow. It is really a couch, and each night I take all the cushions and pillows off and make the bed. Then in the morning, I strip the bed and replace the cushions. By the time we arrive I’ll be an expert bed maker.
Only 5-6 days left. I really feel proud for doing this.
Again very dark at night with no moon. Makes it very difficult to drive the boat because the deck you are standing on is moving in all directions, the boat is being pushed around by waves and wind and you are expected to stay a course of 275 degrees. Both eyes darting from the red readouts of the compass in the middle, boat speed on the left and wind direction and speed on the right. As the wind oscillates the course should change accordingly to avoid a jibe.
Dec 5th15:30 UTC Pos. lat 17deg 30.84'N / 46deg 00.66'W-
The good news is that we fixed the bad news, the bad news was rudder problems last night. A lot of shimmy in the wheel had us head down in the rudder locker at 02:00 in the morning trying to find the problem. After the Hunter lost its rudder, this was foremost in our minds. We determined that we would not lose the rudder because all the fittings and bearings were intact, and this morning we fixed a worn keyway in the steering wheel hub. We were rewarded this afternoon with another fine Dorado ( Mahi Mahi ) The damn predator attacked my innocent lure. That's two fish for my Purple Fish Killer and two for my Innocent Red & white plug!! Winds are light, seas moderate, and 830 miles to go.
We need wind and some action!!! DMcT
Friday
Dec. 6,2002
We are starting to get close. It looks like we will be in St. Lucia by Tues. We have a little betting pool for the crew. My prediction is for 16:15 for arrival. Mike is 16:00 and Cam is 15:30. We are all hoping Cam wins. Two weeks is enough.
Flew the spinnaker for a couple of hours but could not maintain a good course with it so back to wing on wing.
After dinner we watched a movie on the VCR (all the comforts of home) Trains, Planes and Automobiles with John Candy. Very funny. Then went on watch from 21:00 – 24:00`.
Got an email from Graham. Good for the Als. It’s been a long time between Grey Cups.
aphrodite@
"Being at sea is like being in prison, with the prospect of drowning" Samuel Johnson (Edward Owen did not make the cut today).
WE are 700 nm from the "target" and clinging to 4th place in our class. Little prospect of improving, but you never know. We had a couple of relatively slow days, but now have picked up a burst of speed with squalls. So much so, that, just after Skyler knocked off the "single burst" speed record thru the water with 9.3 knots, the skipper roared back with a 9.4 terror filled few seconds. Cam, the purser was watching the GPS consol at the time. It showed 11.7 knots over the mud! These thrillers were achieved running dead down wind (35 knots) with all canvas up. OK, so the skipper moments later spun around in a near broach (the boom miraculously did not dip into the salty). Aphrodite, dear lady that she is, lay there in shock for a second or two, with the boomed out genoa back winding, then, rising, shook herself off and charged back on her original course at breakneck speed!!---Commotion on deck!! McTavish has just caught his 5th Mahi, Mahi!. Enough, enough. WE dispatch the poor thing by bleeding it, and then watch a temporary rainbow on its sides and dorsal, really bright blue, then the final fade to grey. Skyler hauled his fish in yesterday, while today it was Mike's turn. Roast Beef anyone? The purser bought and preserved so much bread in Las Palmas, that we are still eating fresh bread out of the freezer. We are going to be heroes of the St Lucia food bank, when we turnover the mammoth quantities of canned goods and frozen meats on arrival. When planning a crossing, one usually needs 21 days of grub (at least). On top of that the bounty of the sea has given us 5 humungous meals!---
Wednesday was taken up trying to solve a steering/rudder problem. The midnight watch began to notice the rudder not responding immediately to the wheel and wobbling slightly. After investigating as many nasty possibilities as we could with no results, McTavish solves the mystery by finding some play in the wheel hub sprocket where it is pressed onto the hub shaft. The key is worn or the wrong size. Potentially a problem, but a relief compared to other potential rudder problems. Crikey!!! More later!! Stand By!
Saturday
Dec. 7, 2002
Slept till 7:30 then went on watch from 8-10. When we get into St. Lucia we will have a huge laundry to do, go to the beach etc. I will try to change my return flight to Thurs or Fri. I don’t know if I can change my ticket so I may be there till Sunday. I’m ready to go home. I think I understand how sailors who have been at sea for long times tend to blow their whole paycheck when in port. The bars on land are beginning to look more and more enticing.
Passed another sailboat his afternoon. First vessel that we have seen in over week. It was from France. The captain was French but living in California, the rest of the crew from Toulouse. Typical French, skinny with black speedos. Not to be outdone, when they saw our Canadian flag flying on our stern, they quickly unravelled the tri colour. They were not part of the ARC race. They had left from Cape Verde and their way to Guadalupe.
Couldn’t sleep. Too much rock and roll, bang and crash.
aphrodite@
"Nothing good comes from the crew smelling the land"
Edward Owen April 1939 quoted in an interview regarding the ill-fated St Clair Theriault (his last schooner command), lost in the Bay of Biscay during a Jan '39 gale. She had been dismasted and adrift in the gale for 14 days, before Edward Owen and the crew were taken off successfully by the British tramp steamer "Hertfordshire" The storm was so severe that, as the distressed seaman were taken aboard, the steamer's stbd wing bridge deck dipped into a huge wave and was torn off-----But I digress---- First, speaking of bad weather, this ARC has taken a toll, first the loss of a crewmember overboard in heavy seas and then this morning the loss of the vessel "F2" a 45' Hunter. She lost her rudder and was taking on water. The crew was taken successfully aboard another yacht that had been standing by. We are 160 nm from the finish, normally slightly less than a day's sail. Winds a little fluky, but arrival tomorrow aft is most likely. Edward Owen had a point tho'--- 3 Days ago, our crew thought and acted as one, the focus on the goal was magnificent to behold. (the goal being to arrive in one piece with all accounted for!) Man in his most noble sense!! The lack of avarice was filled by an uncommon civility and sense of communal concern. ---Boom! The smell of land cracks the veneer in a nanosecond. Small things at f first--More shaving and personal hygiene care, little disagreements over the laundry priorities, a tendency to show up a minute or two late for his watch. Then, horrors, conversations that are laced with "I's" rather than the previous "We's". Can we hold on to the finish?? Stay tuned! The psychodrama continues---
Sunday
Dec. 8, 2002
Finished watch at 9:00 PM and started again at 3 AM. Crew is getting ready for arrival tomorrow. Mainly lying around, sleeping or reading.183 nautical miles left.
Just heard the news that United Airlines has filed for Chapter 11. I hope US Air can hold on till I get home. Getting anxious to step on terra ferma. Getting used to interrupted sleep at irregular hours. The night watch seems to be getting longer and longer.
Monday
Dec. 9, 2002
Another regular day at sea. We flew the spinnaker for a short while. Found that although it did help us go faster, the time it took to put it up and take it down eliminated any advantage. Saw 2 other boats today. Mike and I were below decks when Don informed us that the skipper wanted to put up the spinnaker again. Mutiny flashed for a second in our minds as we looked at each other and thought, “What is he thinking”. Then we were informed that Don was only joking, but to be honest our own reactions were identical and interesting, could we actually mutiny?
aphrodite@
This is the Hunter yacht that lost is rudder. Toutazimut is the yacht that lost a person overboard. From: positions@worldcruising.com (World Cruising Club)
Subject: Fleet Message - F2
Yacht F2 of Plymouth
Following the failure of their jury-rudder yesterday evening (Sun.8 Dec), the yacht has been without steering and was taking on water. This morning, with yachts Lorrigray II, Muskrat and Toutazimut standing by, Peter and Zara Davies and Ellie (the German shepherd) were evacuated from their yacht, transferring to Lorrigray II, using Muskrat's dinghy.
F2 was scuttled at position 16.59N 40.53W at 15:00UTC. A security alert is being issued by MRCC Falmouth via the USCG San Juan to all shipping, as the yacht is still partially afloat.
Peter, Zara and Ellie are safe and well. A sad day for them and our thoughts are with them. Very many thanks to the yachts, which have assisted them over the last 8 days.
ENDS.
Tuesday
Dec. 10, 2002
Finally about to arrive. A large Oyster (sailboat) has been following us and seems to be gaining ground. When we came around the north end of Pigeon Island she was only 100 yards behind us so it was a sprint to the finish. Sixteen days and 3 hours. Two days off the previous record. Finishing 4th in our fleet and 29th overall is fantastic.
After crossing the finish line, we anchored in the bay and had some champagne, beer truffles and a great swim, then motored into the harbour.
It’s finally over. I am writing this from the bedroom of Tony Atkinson’s house in Castries, St. Lucia. When we arrived in port we had several chores to do. In the evening we went to the Royal St. Lucia Yacht Club for the early Arrivals cocktail party and reception. I met a guy who was a UNB graduate. Seems like he is the skipper of a British Oyster. Then back to the marina and a cozy bar. After visiting the washroom I couldn’t understand why my crewmembers were all wet. Then I realised that I was surrounded by the crews of the other Swans and in a flash I was swimming in the pool. Had a great time.
Everyone we meet is very supportive and seems to be somewhat in awe of what we have done. It hasn’t sunk in yet. Our crew dinner was held at the Eagles Inn restaurant, which is right on the gap at the entrance to Rodney Bay marina. As other boats were finishing, we would all leap out of our chairs and applaud them as they sailed the last few yards of their 2700 miles. Only we knew how they felt. After 3 weeks at sea the end was near. My gift from the crew was a copy of “ The Unknown Shore” by Patrick O’Brien. Can’t wait to start it.
aphrodite@stratosmobile.net wrote:
Dec 10 midnight-Just got off watch. We were driving Aphrodite right on course to our mark and right up the moonlight path to the half moon-inverted like cup full of good luck. Medium waves slapping the stern and knocking us off course just enough to require constant attention to the wheel. 87 miles to go. Boat 10 miles behind us. We don't know who he is because of the chaos in ARC reporting. He might not even be in the race. No matter, he is classed as enemy and will be vanquished! Great night- for my last of this race. We should cross the finish line by 13:00 hrs Montreal time. DMcT
aphrodite@
Well Boys- We did it!
We just arrived in a glorious finish at Rodney Bay. For three days, a British million-dollar sailboat " Ace of Spades" has been chasing us. We beat the bugger by 3 minutes + - at the finish line. Great Day Boys. Thanks to the crew and a great boat. We accomplished our mission - NO ONE HURT-CROSS THE ATLANTIC-BEAT OUR TIME OF 2000. ALL DONE WITH A BIT OF STYLE. Thanks guys- hey someone turn out the lights
YAHOO!!
(What I’ve Learned)
>There is no substitute for a great crew with plenty of experience, especially on the foredeck.
>While on meal duty and when in doubt, add more potatoes and carrots to the pot.
>Boy Scouts taught you a lot of good things but I wish I had paid more attention to the knots. A bowline, a clove hitch and a reef are great but I could have used a couple of others.
>When furling the jib, release the sheet rapidly as you are not trimming at that point.
>Showering while at sea requires agility, balance and a sense for the dance. Forget any dignity. Standing on one foot, pumping a floor pedal for water pressure, holding the shower head in the right hand, washing hair with the left while the boat rocks and pitches is a formula for sitting on the floor.
>It makes the trip a lot more enjoyable knowing that loved ones and friends are following and cheering you on via the internet.
>No matter how calm it may seem, always clip on your tether. The greatest threat is that of complacency.
>The ocean is only 30 miles wide. That is the diameter of the circle that you are sailing in and you are constantly at the center point.
>When the waves start washing over the rails, it’s best to be below decks with all the hatches secured.
>Progressive lenses do not allow you to focus on a deck that is heaving in all directions. Better to have one magnification or none at all. They sap your confidence and your ability to work on deck without the urge to sit down.
>The energy and force of one wave will easily pick up a 30-ton vessel and throw it over the backside, only to be repeated by the next one.
>When at the bottom of the trough of a 20-foot wave, you are looking up 40 feet to the crest of the next one.
>Always have one hand for yourself and one for the boat.
>Eight hours of sleep is never available at one time, but can be made up of several short naps whenever the time and opportunity presents itself. Without beginning with several opportune naps, sleep deficit accumulates and focus is lost.
>Never store the yellow bananas with the green. To have them all ripen at the same time encourages the purser to force the eating of bananas at every opportunity, which is not good.
>Holding a course, in 30 knots of wind, and cross-seas is impossible, at which point the course becomes a general direction.
>Wherever you go in the world, you will meet people who have walked the same corridors as you have and who know some of the same people that you know.
>Sailing around the buoys on a Saturday afternoon, prepares you in no way for an Atlantic crossing. Only a crossing, prepares you for a crossing.
>Always rinse the salt out of your cloths before drying or they will never dry.
>Nothing refreshes like a frozen lime-cordial and water while on a late, dark, hot, watch.
>The lure of the open ocean is now a part of who I am and my tombstone may now bear the words “Trans-Atlantic Sailor”.
